Hidden amongst the hustle & bustle of Gujarat’s largest city lies remnants to the city’s ancient and glorious past.
With kaleidoscopic architecture that rivals the most sophisticated Hindu temples, the stepwells of Ahmedabad are unmissable historical sites, and certainly some of the most aesthetically pleasing you’ll ever come across.
There are thousands of stepwells across India and many of them are near Ahmedabad. It can be hard to know where to go to find the ones worth your time, so in this guide I’ve given you everything you need to know to visit the best stepwells of Ahmedabad.
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About the Stepwells of Ahmedabad
While today the metropolis of 5 million is sustained largely by a series of dams & canals that divert into the otherwise seasonal Sabarmati River, throughout the city’s long history it was the stepwells that provided the people with water.
The inhabitants of this region have long contended with the dry & arid climate, and while the Romans were known for their aqueducts, India’s answer to water sustainability were the stepwells (vavs, in the local languages), and they remain a common site across Northwest India to this day.
Built from as early as the 11th century AD, the wells vary in size & shape but all consist of steps leading deep into ground, some up to 100ft, to access groundwater – a reliable alternative when the rivers dry up each year.
These public watering holes were once important meeting places for the local communities, not only providing a source of water but also a place to rest, socialise & trade away from the arid heat.
There are dozens of stepwells in and around Ahmedabad, although finding an official list of all these ancient watering holes is almost impossible. They all vary in size, popularity & accessibility, with some being obscure and and lost within the urban sprawl, while others are popular tourist sites.
Below I’ve narrowed it down the the absolute best stepwells either in the city itself, or a day trip from it.
Stepwells in Ahmedabad
Below are the stepwells located in the city of Ahmedabad itself, These are the stepwells that are the most easily accessible.
Adalaj Stepwell
Located on the Northern outskirts of the city lies the Adalaj Vav, without a doubt the most popular & ‘touristy’ stepwell in the region.
This vav is made up of a stepped corridor leading 5 stories underground towards an octagonal well. In the walls & pillars throughout the structure are remarkably intricate carvings, made up of a mix of Islamic, Hindu & Jain influences.
While the Vav may be beautiful to look at, perhaps the most interesting thing about it is the story of how it was built.
According to historical records, some of which come directly from the inscriptions on the wall of the structure, the well was commissioned in 1598 by the local King at the time, Rana Veer Singh, in honour of his beloved wife. Unfortunately for him, he didn’t live to complete the project as he was soon killed in battle by the Sultan of Gujarat, Mahmud Begada.
One can only wonder how the late King would have felt had he known that, shortly after his death, his killer would take the fancy of the beloved wife for whom he built the well. The wife would agree to marry the Sultan on the condition that he finishes building the well. And so he did. Only for her to later fall into the well and die.
So distraught was the Sultan that he ordered the deaths of the 6 stonemasons who built it, so that no replica could ever be made.
Given this story, it’s almost ironic, or perhaps deliberate, that this stepwell is also the most restricted and closed off, with several metal fences & grates around the structure preventing falls & injuries, or from accessing certain parts of the structure.
While the extra safety precautions are probably a good thing, they certainly make the site less pleasing to look at. The following stepwell on this list, on the other hand, is quite the opposite…
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Dada Harir
The Dada Harir stepwell is somewhat of a hidden gem. Despite being situated right in the heart of Ahmedabad, making it one of the easiest to reach, it’s far less popular and ‘touristy’ than Adalaj.
This isn’t because it lacks any architectural beauty. Dada Harir vav is every bit as impressive as Adalaj, with an almost identical size & layout.
Similar to Adalaj, Dada Harir was built in 1485 and, like all stepwells, it’s history is detailed on an inscription on the wall.
According to this, it was commissioned by the Dhai Harir (from whom it takes it’s name), a household lady of the aforementioned Sultan who was responsible for managing his royal harem – clearly a distinguished role in those times.
Dada Harir is without a doubt better than Adalaj for 2 reasons…
Firstly, it hasn’t been fenced off (at least not yet), leaving it exactly as it appeared when it was first built and allowing for unobstructed views & photos of the structure.
Being less restricted makes the site more dangerous (you’ll likely see children running along the edge of a 5-story drop), but the extra freedom makes this site a treat to explore (and photograph).
If you’re trying to reach the upper galleries, don’t risk your life but shimmering along the upper edges (like I did). Instead, head back up top and you’ll find a spiral staircase alongside the deepest section of the well, allowing for easy access to the upper levels.
The second reason this stepwell is better is that it’s situated on the same site as the Dhai Harir Sultani Mosque, another historical site. A part of this complex is a tomb which houses the final resting place of several historical figures, including the very same Dhai Harir.
If you can only visit one stepwell in Ahmedabad, make sure it’s Dada Harir.
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Stepwells near Ahmedabad
The following stepwells are those located away from Ahmedabad, but still easily visited on a daytrip from the city.
Rani Ki Vav
The Rani Ki Vav, also known as Sidhpur Stepwell, is located a fair way out of Ahmedabad, but since it’s arguably the most popular & stunning of all the stepwells in India, and is a common day trip from the city.
This Vav is one of the largest you’ll come across, being constructed as an inverted temple (built down rather than up), with the idea being that water is holy and deserves a holy space.
The statues & carvings in this structure are unmatched, with 1000s of various sizes depicting Hindu deities in remarkable detail.
This stepwell is older than the others, in fact it’s one of the oldest in India, being built around 1054 AD.
There’s little record on its construction aside from a source written 150 years later. According to this, the stepwell was built during the Chaulukya Dynasty, a regional power which ruled over Gujarat at the time. When it’s long reigning leader, Bhima, passed away, his wife commissioned the well to be built in his honour.
Somewhere along the way (it’s unclear when) Rani Ki stepwell was buried in silt after continual flooding from the nearby Saraswati River, leaving only a few pillars showing.
It wasn’t until the 1940s that it was excavated again, and the 1980s that it was properly restored.
These days it’s well maintained and was even deemed to the Cleanest Iconic Place in India in 2016 – which carries meaning considering the usual amounts of garbage covering historical sites in India.
Thanks to this effort, you get to experience the stepwell in its full glory – and it truly is something to behold. Rani Ki is a must visit when in Ahmedabad.
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Modhera Sun Temple
Another of the most spectacular stepwells in India can be found in the small village of Modhera.
Located within 100km of Ahmedabad, and on the way the Rani Ki stepwell in Patan, this village is home to the Sun Temple, dedicated to the Hindu deity Surya.
In Hinduism, Surya is the sun itself, hence the temple’s name. Given that Modhera is located in the dry heat of the Thar Desert, I’d say they chose the perfect location to worship such a deity when the temple was built back in 1025 CE.
The stepwell located here is assumed to have been built sometime later, possibly a century or two, than the temple is resides with.
This stepwell isn’t as deep as the others in this guide, but architecture that surrounds it is unmatched. The intricacy of the rock-carved temple buildings are mesmerising, and will make you wonder how anyone could create such artwork out of stone.
Given its location, the Modhera Sun Temple is best combined on a daytrip with the Rani Ki vav. Thankfully, there are tours that will take you to both, which you can find here.
Getting There Opening Hours Entrance Fees |
Tips for visiting the stepwells
Beat the heat
Gujarat is HOT. While the stepwells are probably the best escape from the heat, you’ll still be doing a fair bit of walking in the sun, at the sites and one your way there. To avoid unbearable heat from spoiling your experience, aim to visit during the morning or evening. This is also essential if you want to avoid the crowds.
Dress Code
When visiting holy sites in India it’s expected that you remove your shoes before entering, and this can sometimes extend to the stepwells. Be sure to check for signs on this if you don’t want to be told off by the locals.
Book a tour
In the chaos of Ahmedabad it can be difficult to find your own way to the stepwells, so make your life easier by booking a tour. There are plenty of tours that will cover your transportation to many of the best stepwells in the city, and possibly even to other popular historical places in Ahmedabad. You can explore the best of these tours here.
