You’ve heard of great historical sites like the Pyramids of Giza, Angkor Wat and Petra. But have you heard of the Ellora & Ajanta Caves?
If you have, kudos to you. If not, that’s okay, because most outside of India haven’t. While these caves are sometimes included in lists of the greatest historical sites in the world, they’ve somehow remained relatively obscure and unknown.
Which is a shame because these are some of the most awe-inspiring and unforgettable monolithic structures you’ll ever see. The size & scale, the intricacy & detail of the carvings – there’s nothing quite like it even in historically rich countries like India.
In a nutshell, the Ellora & Ajanta caves are a series of temples & religious dwellings that were gradually carved into the basalt hills of Maharashtra, near the city of Aurangabad, from the 2nd century BCE up until the 10th century CE.
With little more than a hammer & chisel they created structures that would be considered great engineering & artistic achievements even if they were built today.
Whether you’re a history buff or not, these are unmissable historical sites. To help you experience them for yourself, I’ve created this comprehensive guide to visiting the Ellora & Ajanta Caves.
Contents
A Brief History of Ellora and Ajanta Caves
The dominant religion in India, or at least the one favoured by rulers at the time, has alternated back and forth over the years like changing seasons, something that’s reflected in the timeline of these caves.
While today they all exist side by side, the different sections were built hundreds of years apart, monuments to either Buddhism, Hinduism or Jainism.
Ajanta
The earliest caves can be found at Ajanta, and were all dedicated to Buddhism. The origins of this site are still shrouded in mystery, as no one is quite sure when they were first built. However, most agree it was between the 2nd century BCE and 5th century CE.
These caves were once a thriving religious meeting place, and served as temples & monasteries, retreats for the monks during the monsoon, and a home for merchants & travelling pilgrims.
Somewhere along the line the caves were abandoned and lost to time, likely due to the dominant religion in the region shifting to Hinduism and later Islam, while the centre of Buddhism moved East.
It wasn’t until 1819 when British colonial officer John Smith, while out hunting for tigers, happened across the caves that had long been retaken by the jungle.
Of course the caves were assumedly still known to the locals all those years but it wasn’t until the British discovery that their existence once again became widely known.
Ellora
While Ajanta may have been forgotten, the Ellora caves have had a long & diverse life.
The oldest caves here are believed to be those dedicated to Hinduism, and were constructed around the same era as the later caves at Ajanta (c. 6th century CE), as if the other site was abandoned in favour of Ellora.
But the changing religious climate did not impact the significance of this site, as ancient India was known for its religious harmony. Within 150 years Buddhism made a comeback, but rather than choose a different location, new caves were carved into the basalt hillside alongside the old.
Within the next 200 years, Hinduism once again gained favour alongside another ancient religion which had largely remained a minority: Jainism. It was during this era that the largest and most impressive temples were built, like the famous Kailasa Temple.
As such, the Ellora caves became a rare thing: a holy site for multiple different religions, worshipping their respective gods side-by-side. Ellora was never lost, and has remained an important religious & cultural site ever since.
Today these caves are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and are cared for by the Archeological Survey of India
Now that you know a little about how they came to be, let’s dive into everything you need to know to visit the Ellora & Ajanta Caves.
Best Things To See
Kailasa Temple (Ellora)
Without a doubt the most impressive construction across both sites, and arguably across India, is cave 16, also known as Kailasa Temple.
This glorious monolith looks like a work of fiction straight out of an Indiana Jones film, and will leave you baffled as to how humans could build such a thing with little more than a hammer & chisel.
Covering an area twice the size of the Parthenon in Athens, it is estimated that around 200,000 tonnes of stone were excavated out of the hillside in order to create the temple – a feat made even more impressive by allegedly being built in only 18 years (756-773 CE).
Is it said that Mughul Emperor Aurangzeb, a dedicated follower of Islam, once sent a thousand men to destroy Kailasa Temple but, after 3 years of trying, the men were unable to break down the stone and gave up.
While this story may be exaggerated, I think we can all be very grateful for their lack of stone-destroying skills, because the temple is a site to behold.
The Vishwakarma Cave (Ellora)
The most impressive of the Buddhist caves is Cave 10, the Vishvakarma Cave.
This Chaitya (prayer hall) was carved into the hillside somewhere around 650CE and is also known as the ‘carpenter’s cave’ since the rock carvings, particularly on the ceiling, have been designed in a way to resemble wood carvings.
This chaitya is massive, one of the biggest you’ll ever see and contains a 15 foot depiction of the Buddha on its stupa.
In some ways this cave is like a ‘last hurrah’ for Buddhism on the subcontinent, since, despite its impressive scale, it was built right around the time the religion faded in obscurity and became overshadowed by Hinduism.
The Jain Caves (Ellora)
While the Hindu & Buddhist caves are grouped together, the Jain caves are somewhat separate, nestled in their own part of the hillside about 500m away from the others.
Making up caves 30 to 34 the Jain Caves make up a section of their own and were excavated in the 9th & 10th centuries CE. The caves here are smaller than the others but are still some of the most impressive, with highly detailed sculptures & carvings.
Cave 30 is like a miniature version of Kailasa Temple but with Jain depictions rather than Hindu.
These caves are more than just historical monuments, but rather are still holy places of worship even today.
On your visit here you may see Jains using these halls for worship, which is almost like stepping back in time and witnessing these caves being used the way they were intended.
Cave 1 (Ajanta)
Among the best caves at Ajanta are those you’ll first come across upon entering the site.
These are the Vihars (common spaces for the worshippers to rest & mingle) and arguably the most interesting of them is cave 1.
Inside its large central hall held up by rows of massive pillars, this cave hosts some of the best preserved and most interesting of all the murals at Ajanta.
The depictions are mostly of religious stories & symbolism, but also depict a surprising amount of secular themes, like visits from foreigners all the way from Persia.
Cave 1, along with the first few numbered caves you’ll visit at Ajanta, is one of the youngest, being built ‘only’ 1500 years ago.
Cave 26 (Ajanta)
While cave 1 contains some of the best paintings, cave 26 arguably has the best sculptures & carvings.
A chaitya (prayer hall), this cave’s remarkable architecture is apparent even from the outside as the entire front face is covered in intricate depictions of the Buddha. Then the inside is even more impressive with seemingly every square inch of the interior covered in details.
On the wall there is a massive carving of the reclining Buddha and at the end of the hall is a large stupa, which the buddhist would face when they filled this hall to worship.
Similar to Cave 1, this cave is one of the youngest at the site, being built somewhere around 500CE, after more sophisticated stone-masonry techniques were developed.
How to Get to Aurangabad
Before you make your way to the caves, you need to reach Aurangabad.
The caves are one day trip each and this city will be your homebase as you explore the caves and the abundance of other historical places this amazing region has to offer.
Aurangabad is located in central Maharashtra, about 250km East of Mumbai, and there are 2 options for getting there.
Bus to Aurangabad
Depending on where you’re coming from getting a bus may be your most straightforward option.
India has bus routes to and from almost anywhere and is the go to option for middle distance travel when trains aren’t an option.
A bus ride from Mumbai takes about 8 -10 hours, but you can make the most of this time by booking an overnight sleeper bus so you don’t waste a day. You can book bus tickets easily on Redbus.
Train to Aurangabad
Aurangabad has train lines between most major cities like Mumbai, Pune & Hyderabad and it’s definitely the best option if available.
If you’re impression of Indian trains is overcrowded carriages with people sitting on the roof, you can rest assured because that won’t be your experience.
Depending on the class of ticket you buy, you’ll have a comfortable space to yourself. Just like the bus, you can catch an overnight sleeper train, which can be booked online easily at 12go.asia.
Now that you’re in Aurangabad it’s time to settle in and arrange transport to the caves.
How to get to Ellora and Ajanta Caves from Aurangabad
In case you missed it, the caves are 2 separate sites and need to be visited separately.
While it is possible to see both in one day, it’s not advisable due to their size and the time it takes to get from one to the other.
There are 2 options for reaching the caves:
Catch a Bus
Public buses run multiple times a day to both caves. The journey to Ellora cost 40INR and takes about 45min, while Ajanta cost 120INR and takes just under 3hrs. Buses leave from Aurangabad Central Bus Station.
There’s no need to book in advance, you can just turn up and ask one of the locals which bus goes to which cave (since few signs are in English).
Hire a taxi
The more comfortable & convenient way to reach the caves is to hire a private taxi.
They’ll pick you up at your hotel and drive you straight to the caves, wait for you and drive you back for around 1200INR for Ellora and 2200INR for Ajanta. However, if you’re willing to spend a bit extra then your driver will also stop by other sites along the way, like Daulatabad Fort or the mini Taj Mahal.
This is highly recommended as its the most practical way to visit all the major sites in the region in one go, since many of them lie outside the city and on the way to the caves.
What to Expect
Ajanta
The bus to Ajanta will drop you off at the parking lot and it’s still a bit of a hike to the ticket office. However, you can grab a shuttle bus there for 40INR one way.
It’s at the ticket booth that locals will try to sell you guidebooks. It’s not necessary (because you have this article, right?) but having a guidebook with you definitely enhances the experience.
Once you’re through the ticket office there’s another short hike up some stairs before you reach the caves. Once you’re up you’ll find yourself at Cave 1, with the rest of the caves stretched along a cliff face in horseshoe shape.
The caves are not numbered in the order that they were built, but rather the oldest ones are mostly around the centre.
Out of the 30, some of them are unfinished or are just degraded over time, while others have been significantly preserved & maintained by the Archeological Survey of India.
Once you’ve visited the caves, be sure to take the bridge across the gorge and hike up the hill for a panoramic view of the caves.
Ellora
Unlike Ajanta, the entrance to Ellora is right on the road where you’ll be dropped off, and as soon as you pass the ticket office you’ll be greeted by the most impressive structure across the 2 sites: Kailasa Temple.
From here I’d recommend turning right and making a beeline for the Southern end of the site.
If you start here you’ll visit the caves largely in the order that they were built, as if you’re on a journey through time, from the 6th century CE all the way to the 10th when you finish with the Jain caves.
The caves can be categorised into 3 groups: Buddhist, Hindu & Jain. From the southern end you’ll start with the Buddhist caves (1 to 15), then the Hindu caves (16 to 28), and lastly you’ll follow the path a bit further to the Jain caves (29 to 34), which as mentioned about 500m away from the rest.
The early Buddhist caves are a little more simple in terms of architecture and size, while the later Hindu and Jain caves are without a doubt the most spectacular, demonstrating the growing sophistication of the tools & techniques over the centuries.
Opening Hours
Ellora – 9am to 5pm, closed Wednesdays.
Ajanta – 9am to 5pm, closed Mondays.
While I aim to keep this article up to date, the times and closing day for the caves has been known to change over the years so be sure to double check it before going.
You can easily check the latest opening hours on the Aurangabad Tourism website here.
Best time to visit
While the caves are open at all times of the year, it still helps to consider when to visit.
The caves are located on the Deccan Plateau, where seasons can be extreme. And by extreme, I exclusively mean either pouring rain or unbearably hot.
The monsoons actually add to the beauty of the caves, especially Ajanta, as they become covered in green and some sections turn into waterfalls. But going at this time also means you run the risk of your trip being spoiled by a tropical downfall.
In between these periods of extreme there’s a window of time where the weather is quite pleasant, and if you have the luxury of choice then you should aim for this.
The heat picks up around March and monsoon kicks in from July to September. Which means you should aim between November to February, or even more ideal between December & January, when the heat is bearable and rain is rare.
Which site is better?
So, you’ve only got time to visit one of the sites and want to know which one is more worth it?
When I ask other people who’ve been there I get mixed responses. Ellora is bigger but involves more walking. Ajanta is more scenic but is further away. Each has their merits.
However from my personal experience I can say without a doubt that Ellora is better, for multiple reasons…
- It’s bigger.
- It has more impressive structures (like Kailasa Temple).
- It’s closer & easier to reach.
- There are many other historical sites on the way there (Like Daulatabad & Khuldabad).
So, if you can only visit one, choose Ellora.
There you have it, a complete guide to visiting the Ellora & Ajanta Caves. Now that you know everything you need, get out there. Or check out one of our other blog posts below.
